Vienna has a regal feel - grandiose buildings and elegant coffee houses - but also a vibrant energy that pulses with the many feet stomping on its streets and sidewalks. Had it not been so cold I would have walked and walked without stopping, but frigid hands meant I had to duck inside somewhere frequently for coffee, wine, schnitzel, or art. Vienna is the ring city, meaning that its main town is egg-shaped. Making a tram ride around the ring a great way to get an introduction.
Our first day we made a beeline for a schnitzel restaurant and then took advantage of the super short days (sarcasm, much?) to catch the main sights and Weihnachtsmarkt by night. Very lovely. Later we met friends at a typical wine heuringer, best described as a deep wine cellar lit by candlelight.
The next morning I awoke very early to hightail it to the palace compound to get a free standing room ticket to hear the Vienna Boys Choir. The boys performed from above during the mass, and then came to the front as a special treat to sing some Christmas songs. They're so young (some looked no older than 7!), but they can really sing. See an excerpt here:
That day we met at the coffee house frequented by Freud to nom on a traditional Viennese breakfast, and then I spent the day solo walking around and checking out the Belvedere Art museum to see my lieblings painting. I'm not usually an art museum type of girl, but many friends and I have the print, and it radiated in person. The rest of the day entailed more walking about and trying to get a good feel for what is Vienna. I will definitely be back in the spring to see some Viennese gardens in bloom.
We finished our time in Vienna by getting very cheap standing room tickets to see an opera at the huge opera house. The 3 Euro price was worth it just to see the inside of the building, and good thing because like typical uncultured 20-somethings we left after the first act. Bravo!
Onward in Austria to Salzburg we went, and those who know me know why I love that city so darn much...Hint: It has something to do with a very famous musical involving a governess and 7 children who can sing. My last visit brought clover-filled fields and sun and this one snow-filled streets and alps covered in white. The city had a completely different feel, but it still felt like going home.
First stop was the Mirabell Gardens, where I attempted to recreate Maria's joyous romp while singing "Do Re Mi." The four of us cruised around the old town and hiked up near the fortress with stunning views of the alps. We finished the day with a trip to a really cool beer hall with a very special way of ordering: pick up stein from shelf, wash stein in fountain, get ticket from woman, give ticket to beer pourer, receive freshly-made beer. Lots of fun.
Salzburg, I love thee!
ahhh vienna boys choir!!!
ReplyDelete